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There is no why associated with
a trip to Tahiti, only when. My when was mid-January, a time
when the cold Midwestern wind readily nudges jumboliners across
the eight thousand miles that separates wintry Detroit from
this tropical paradise. Tahiti is the focal point of French
Polynesia, the largest of nearly two hundred islands scattered
like seeds across the South Pacific. The essence of the romantic
setting, it's also extremely family friendly, as I learned alongside
my children Josh and Alicia, who came with me. |
Keith with his children, Josh and Alicia,
next to the dolphin monument
on Bora Bora. |
Keith is shown how to feed a stingray by
Bora Bora local, Patrick.
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We
trekked throughout the Society archipelago by canoe, powerboat
and prop plane...finding new and exciting adventures on each
island we visited. We boogie boarded on the legendary surfing
break at Tahiti's Papenoo Beach, fed sharks and stingrays in
the translucent waters of Bora Bora's lagoon, and swam with
the Moorea dolphins. The kids were champs throughout, and brought
back with them (beside a trunkload of souvenirs) a semester's
worth of extra-credit reports to justify the week they spent
away from the classroom.
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always, we ate well. Polynesia is a territory of France, and
the Gallic influence is everywhere; in language, culture, and
cuisine. To Polynesians, both the natives and the many European
transplants, food matters. Tahiti is probably the best place
in the world outside of France to get a steaming, crusty baguette,
and the fanciful blending of classical French technique with
local foods make dining here a unique and marvelous experience.Most
of the chefs I worked with were trained in France (several had
Michelin three-star affiliations), and in general, reported
that Polynesian ingredients, though somewhat limited in scope,
fit in well with their tried and true methods. Like the Basques,
the Polynesians mingle fruits and meats in a single dish quite
readily, and the seafood dishes here are extraordinary. Parrot
fish, red and white tuna, and a flaky swordfish known locally
as meka (a far cry from the tough steaks we sometimes encounter
in the States) graced every menu.
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Keith picks out his dinner, Spiny Lobster,
at Bloody Marys on Bora Bora.
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Mille Feuille of Mahi Mahi with Grilled
Moorea Pineapple and Society Island Fruits.
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Of
particular interest was the ubiquitous Polynesian ceviche, Poisson
Cru, in which freshly-caught raw fish is tossed with lime juice
and coconut milk. While on Moorea, I stopped by a vanilla plantation
and created a couple of recipes using this painstakingly-grown,
but sensationally aromatic spice, which I later prepared with
the chef from Beachcombers Resort, just outside Tahiti's capital
city of Papeete. |
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best culinary experience I encountered, however, was miles from
any restaurant. On a tiny Robinson Crusoe-style island within
the Bora Bora lagoon, a group of native cooks prepared a full-blown
Tahitian cookout using the underground oven known as an Ahima'a.
Suckling pig accompanied roasted taro root, breadfruit, plantains,
and the rich, delicious Tahitian poi, which is made from pureed
pumpkin, sweetened with coconut, and is a far cry from the bland
Hawaiian staple of the same name. |
Lunch prepared in the Ahim'a, suckling pig, breadfruit,
chicken and spinach,
and taro root.
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The pineapples on Moorea are
considered the best eating.
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Likewise, I found that the small, intense pineapples grown on
the island of Moorea totally outstrip their famed Hawaiian counterpart
in terms of sweetness and flavor depth. You don't get much more
remote than Polynesia, but it's great to discover that, besides
the lush scenery and sparkling waters, it comes with all the
amenities of home...except the snow.
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