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term ‘culinary odyssey’ may be overused, but this
time, it’s perfectly accurate. The Visionalist crew and
I just returned from the land of Ulysses, having spent two grueling
and exciting weeks exploring the food, wine, and adventures
of Greece. With the torch of the 2004 Olympics about to cast
its light across the country, we discovered that everywhere,
Greece is dusting itself off, polishing its antiquities and
getting ready for international scrutiny |
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My ten-year-old son, Josh, accompanied us throughout Greece,
and proved once again that he’s the heartiest of travelers,
with scarcely a complaint to be heard from him throughout. He
may have missed his GameBoy from time to time, but he made countless
friends along the way. He fit in perfectly well as a member
of the Visionalist crew…he even made his screen debut
as my dining companion during the Crete show! |
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With Jeff Fish busy at work editing the Paris and Rhone-Alps
episodes of Keith Famie’s Adventures, I invited along
a guest producer: my buddy and former Survivor producer John
Feist. John’s resume includes such notable projects as
A Current Affair and America’s Most Wanted (as a producer,
not a subject!) and he’s got a PrimeTime Emmy and a People’s
Choice award to show for his contribution to Survivor. Working
alongside John again was a riot, and the crew loved hearing
us reminisce about the ups and downs of our shared Survivor
experience. John’s ‘reality TV’ vision for
the Greece and Crete episodes of Keith Famie’s Adventures
should make an interesting contrast to the refined and technical
style that Jeff’s fans are used to.
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Throughout Greece we met any number of fine folks who aided
and abetted us along our odyssey. With Chef Vasilios Milios
of St. George Lycabettus Hotel, we toured the sprawling agora
in Athens, where acres of olives and countless varieties of
feta cheese are spread among the fruits, vegetables, and seafood.
The remarkable wines of Attica were sampled at Evharis Vineyards,
and in the spectacular town of Mystra, home of a remarkable
Byzantine castle, we toured the olive groves of Eugene Ladopoulos,
gaining a greater understanding of the techniques used in producing
Greece’s liquid gold, olive oil.
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From there, it was a leisurely ferry ride to the islands: First,
to Hydra, where harbormaster Pan (all five feet of him) gave
us a tour of his water world. Pan is one of the most remarkable
physical specimens I’ve ever encountered; a former Green
Beret, this squat little Hercules could easily pass for a creature
from Greek Mythology…especially for his namesake, Pan!
The island of Ikaria was likewise steeped in history and myth.
It was there that we hooked up with author and restaurateur
Diane Kochilis for an extensive tour of her rugged homeland
(to which she’s returned after growing up in Manhattan).
We discovered the wonders of village-baked bread, freshly made
goat’s cheese inside a rural farmhouse, and sampled Ikarian
fig-based moonshine at the three-hundred-year-old still of Nikos
Vitsaris.
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Crete also proved to be a culinary gem. Following our requisite
exploration of the Hania market, we dined on at a rustic, mountainside
restaurant called Nykterida…the site where Zorba "The
Greek" was filmed. From there, it was a rollicking evening
in Crete’s capital, Heraklion, sipping ouzo and nibbling
on the wonderful seafood appetizers at the numerous tavernas.
Since Cretans dine late, late, late, we capped that evening
at the home of authors Maria and Nikos Psilakis, where we were
provided with a marvelous spread of homemade food that included
roasted goat, rabbit in yogurt sauce, wild mountain greens,
pork with quinces, and a dozen other unusual recipes that both
startled and pleased… never once (at least during this
meal) did Josh ask for a hot dog.
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| The highlight of our
Crete experience occurred a couple of nights later, when, in the
tiny village of Karteros, I attended a cooking contest and festival
surrounding one of Crete’s special edible delights, the
snail. This festival was both heartwarming and fascinating, filled
with music and dance and countless country dishes brought by villagers…
as viewers of the show (scheduled to air on Food Network on September
19), the "Night of the Snails" provided a visual feast
as well. |
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Everything on the mainland unfolded under the careful organization
of Vicky Marinopoulou of Plotin Tours, and with the formidable
road skills of tour bus driver Kostas, making our Greek experience
one of the most noteworthy so far.
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